Easter in Costa Rica

My experience of Easter this year was much different.
Costa Rica is a very Catholic country, and during "Semana Santa" or Holy Week many people go to Mass, pray novenas, and make typical foods like chiverre, pan casero, and sweet empanadas. Many businesses close completely during Holy Thursday, Good Friday and Holy Saturday. And transportation is craaaaaaaaaaazy!

I had Thursday through Sunday off, as my group went to the Arenal Volcano on tour with a guide. On Wednesday afternoon I called the bus station in Monteverde to ask about bus schedules for Holy Thursday, and was informed that there would be only one bus leaving that day for Monteverde (at 6:30am).
Thursday morning I dropped one (of my two groups) group off at the airport and then got a ride to San Jose to catch the bus. I arrived around 5am and had breakfast with a new chaperone who arrived Wednesday evening and would be accompanying me on my ride up the mountain. By 5:30am we were chilling in the bus terminal, and it was already packed! When the ticket window opened shortly after 6am, it was only to announce that the morning bus was full but that there would be another bus in the afternoon. Not wasting any time and already being in line, I bought to tickets for the 2:30pm bus.
So what to do in San Jose? Almost everything was closed, shoe stores and some smaller cafes and restaurants being the only things open. The new chaperone and I (her name is Nanou) walked through empty San Jose all the way to the National Theater. Being fairly familiar with the capital I pointed out any buildings and explained some finer cultural points to a newbie, as well as explaining what being a chap is all about. We sat and talked in front of the Theater for almost 3.5 hours...about Spanish, Costa Rica, life, work, etc. We also throughly enjoyed ourselves people watching. Around 11:30 we wandered down the block and stopped to get some churros and mango drinks. (Right now its mango season and I am in heavennnnnnnn! I can eat a mango anytime!) We sat and talked some more before wandering into a nearby department store. We both got a pair of sandals...right now everything is on sale, as most stores are trying to liquidate their summer products in preparation for winter. We walked around several different stores and before we knew it it was almost 1:45pm, so we headed back to the bus station. We got there in plenty of time and the bus was packed, standing room only. Several tourists sat on the floor...typically its seen as improper tos it on the floor, but they were tourists. Both Nanou and I slept some, until the restroom break. At the same restaurant we saw the bus coming from Monteverde to San Jose, and who should be there but Grettel! On her way to spend the weekend with her brother and some of her Dad's family in San Jose. Its a small country, haha.
I got off in Guacimal, to spend time with my friend Dunnia and her family. She invited me to come visit during the week, and having time off I jumped at the occasion! Her mother was also visiting, and we all had a great time! Her daughter is three and very cute, and I know her husband pretty well! Sometimes we go out dancing together, Dunnia also loves to dance. We went to the river on Good Friday (I am used to not doing anything on good Friday, so going to the river was unexpected). There were numerous families there who had brought soccer balls and picnic food with them, and we watched an intense soccer game in the morning and many people swam in the river after. I played with Dunnia's daughter the whole time, and my shoulders got a little burnt from the sun.
From what I understand it is much more typical for people to spend time at home or go to church during Holy Week, but that life goes on as normal. The most important thing is being with family...thus buses being sold out, packed, and travel being longer and more difficult than usual. Many people also take the opportunity to go the beach or to take the whole week of vacation. This approach to Easter is very different from my experience...on the whole I was really touched by the family element, and how important it is to be with loved ones. North American culture does not have the same emphasis.
Friday evening I went with Dunnia, her husband and daughter to a friend's house a little down the road, where we all watched a movie together. The rest of the family came by and we all sat in the living room watching. Eventually Dunnia's daughter got tired and restless, so we headed back to the house. I was in bed by 9pm.
I also rode an ATV and a dirtbike...the road down to the river is steep and treacherous, so we rode down 4 people on the ATV Dunnia has. Dunnia driving, her daughter in front, and her mother and I hanging onto the back. On the way back up I rode on a dirtbike with a neighbor who lived down the road. I held on tight...it was fun!
On Saturday I watched Dunnia's daughter while Dunnia did laundry. we sat and watched cars go by, played in the swing, talked. She is the sweetest 3 year old ever!!!I will try to post a picture. Around 10:30 I caught the bus up to Monteverde and picked up a few bags from my old house. Muni is living there now, and house hunting too. In the afternoon I dropped off my HUGE suitcase at a friend's for storage. Now I just have to figure out what to do with my mattress. That afternoon I caught the bus back down the mountain to Barranca, and from there to Esparza. Traffic was VERY bad! Most people were heading home that day to spend Easter Sunday in thier house and prepare for work Monday. The trip from Monteverde to Barranca usually takes about 2 hours...instead it was 4. I was pooped when I got to Esparza! I dropped some bags off at Elliott's for storage and we got to visit. On Sunday I was in Puntarenas with Elliott's room-mates most of the day before travelling back to Heredia.
And here I am in the office.

This week my group leaves on Friday, so I will be preparing for that...certificates, questionnaires, probably another trip to the mall (these kids like to shop). Its going to go fast...and we will see what I am doing next week. Hopefully I will find out by Thursday!
As I told Nanou...it's an adventure.

Pura Vida!

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